Second-hand finds: Jean Muir

The clothes in themselves do not make a statement. The woman makes a statement and the dress helps. (Jean Muir)

Glem alt om overhypede McQueen og McCartney. Når det gælder britisk designtalent, så sætter jeg alle mine (genbrugs)penge på Jean Muir. Jean Muir (1928-1995) var så beskeden og så fokuseret på sit håndværk, at hun insisterede på at blive kaldt for “dressmaker” i stedet for “designer”. Seriøst forfriskende i disse tider, hvor mange af de store designeres arbejde blot består i at vimse igennem lokalet, hvor deres undersåtter slaver afsted.

Jean Muir startede karrieren med at arbejde for Liberty & Co og Jaeger, før hun blev kvinde i eget designhus. Hun er kendt for sine tidløse designs, gerne i sort og mørke farver med skulpturelt avantgarde-præg og stærk fokus på skulderpartiet. Og så gør det ikke min fascination mindre, at hendes første husmodel og muse var fabelagtige Joanna Lumley, kendt fra serien Ab Fab.

Så mit hjerte banker altid lidt ekstra hurtigt, når jeg spotter hendes kreationer i genbrugsbutikkerne. Her er tre af mine favoritter:


English: Forget all about over-hyped McQueen and S. McCartney. When it comes to British designers I put all my money on Jean Muir (1928-1995). For her it was all about the craftmanship and she preferred to be called a “dressmaker” rather than a “designer”. Very refreshing and humble and so unlike a lot of today’s big designers who never go anywhere near the actual sewing room.

Jean Muir  began her career working for Liberty & Co and Jaeger before starting her own brand. She loved working with dark colours and there is something timeless, avantgarde and  elegantly bold and sculptural about her dresses and jackets, that often have accentuated shoulders.

Oh, and did I mention, her muse and house model used to be the amazing Joanna Lumley from Ab Fab – how cool is that?

I own three of her pieces and love them all:

Photo: Mette Bassett

Sort uldkjole med fine, detaljerede sølvknapper, fundet til 20 pund i Trinity Hospice i Chiswick.

Black wool dress, bought for 20 pounds in Trinity Hospice in Chiswick.

Photo: Mette Bassett

Karry- (eller safran?) farvet gul jakke med silkefoer og pufskuldre. Kostede 13.49 pund i Oxfam-butikken ved Notting Hill Gate (guide til området på vej).

Curry (or saffron?) coloured jacket with voluminous shoulders. I paid 13.49 pounds for it in the Oxfam shop close to Notting Hill Gate.

Photo: Mette Bassett

Jeg elsker den rundede facon på denne mørkeblå uldjakke/cardigan. Den har slå-om effekt med en lille knap på indersiden, og falder smukt både når den er åben, og når den er knappet. En lille ond møl har dog gnavet et par steder, hvor uldstoffet er blevet helt tyndt, men det ses ikke, når man har noget mørkt under. Fik den for 10 pund i Oxfam-butikken ved Notting Hill Gate.

I love the rounded shape of this dark blue wool cardigan/jacket. The front parts can be crossed over and buttoned as seen on the picture, or just be left open. A nasty little hungry moth has taken a few bites here and there, but it’s minor flaws and they cannot be spotted when you wear a dark top underneath. I paid 10 pounds for it in the Oxfam shop at Notting Hill Gate.

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s